STUDIO GHIBLI MUSEUM

Far from merely exceeding my expectations, the Studio Ghibli Museum in Mitaka (just out of Tokyo) saw my expectations, turned them on their head and took them some place so magical that I could not have dreamt it.

There is a three month wait to book tickets to this museum, such is it's popularity. At only 1000¥ for a full price ticket (which includes a ticket to a screening of one of the museum's exclusive Ghibli shorts, which are rotated every few months to keep dedicated fans coming back for more) it is a very good value outing. That is, depending on how much you choose to spend in the extensive gift shops, book shop and cafes.

Far from the usual modern glass and clean-cut steel of many contemporary museums, and also nothing like museums such as the Kyoto International Manga Museum, which is an old school building converted into a museum, the Ghibli Museum was designed by the man it celebrates - Hayao Miyazaki. Reminiscent of post enlightenment European style buildings - an architectural style which frequently inspires the buildings in Miyazaki's films, the Ghibli Museum is a collection of pokey rooms, winding corridors, scenic balconies and high ceiling feature rooms. 

Quite aside from everything exhibited in the museum, the building itself is marvellous - with stunning attention to detail in both design and decoration. The observant fan will notice that everything - from the stained glass windows and light fittings, to the handrails and fences - is detailed with characters and places from the Ghibli universe. It is at once colourful, exciting and intriguing. The pokey layout inspires curiosity - "What could be up that staircase?" and "What could be hiding in that room over there?" are thoughts that frequently occupy your mind while exploring.  

The short film that we were treated to was titled Yadosagashi (which I think can be translated as 'Searching for Lodging'). It was the story of a young traveler, who leaves the well trodden path to adventure through the fields and woods of Japan, encountering (and having to appease) various kami (Gods, similar to those depicted in Spirited Away). It is a funny and endearing short which still manages to drive home Miyazaki's core message about nature versus civilisation - namely that respecting and co-existing with nature is far more important than the way it is treated by our society. 

Yadosagashi is satisfyingly full of the expected Ghibli quirk, and while obviously targeted at children, it is of such quality that anybody could enjoy it. Cleverly, it features only minimal dialogue allowing it to transcend age differences and language barriers alike.   

 

In ways, experiencing the Ghibli Museum feels as though you are exploring the home of some distant and fascinating relative. Or perhaps as though you've snuck into Miyazaki's seaside holiday house somewhere in Europe. Certainly this is the atmosphere of the permanent exhibit on the second floor. Featuring several small rooms, walls plastered with original concept sketches and watercolours, cell colouring and storyboard strips of Ghibli films, all arrayed in an order which explains the animation process, it truly is a feast for the eyes. Only a minimal portion of the exhibit is behind glass and many sections are interactive. For instance, one room features folios of the entire storyboard/scripts of Princess Mononoke and My Neighbour Totoro. Although these documents are not originals, being able to peruse them directly for as long as you like makes the museum feel intimate, personal and relevant. 

The other major permanent exhibit, located on the ground floor is as much an homage to animation as an art form, as it is to Studio Ghibli. A large room, filled with Ghibli themed exhibits showcasing and explaining various old types of animation, this room is perhaps the most fun. Many of the exhibits are interactive, and again, everything has been designed so that language is not so important to enjoying the exhibit. 

Aside from the permanent exhibitions, the Museum features a space for special exhibits (currently occupied with a Ghibli illustrated version of E. T. A. Hoffmann's The Nutcracker and the Mouse King), and a room known as 'The Cat Bus Room'. The latter is exactly what you'd expect. A room featuring a large replica of the Cat Bus from My Neighbour Totoro. Unfortunately, unless you are under 12, you can say goodbye to getting a ride. This room was PACKED with excited children and weary parents. The cafe too, was extremely popular. So popular, in fact, that there is a designated waiting area (complete with shade and seats!) so that people can queue to eat at the restaurant. Luckily, for those not so dedicated to waiting for their food, there is also a small kiosk selling hot dogs, ice cream and the like.   

Its popularity unfortunately means that the museum is always almost crowded, especially with families. Our group arrived shortly after opening and I would recommend doing this if you're keen to avoid the crowd. Although it was busy the entire time we were there, the afternoon was certainly busier than the morning. 

Various elements of the museum have obviously been designed for children. While this is a refreshing departure from traditional monument design (which can feel dry, official and almost exclusively for the benefit of pensioners) it also means you should prepare yourself for dealing with a horde of small children throughout the day. It is certainly worth it though. The Ghibli Museum in Mitaka is an adventure worthy of anyone brave enough to undertake it!